This is a basic article on Masked Lovebirds.

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Masked Lovebirds (Agapornis personata)

This is a basic article on Masked Lovebirds. Please remember this only offers the basic necessities and requirements for keeping these birds, so before keeping or breeding, I would recommend further in-depth research to learn more.

Introduction

Masked Lovebirds, also know as Black Masked Lovebirds were discovered in 1887 in their native area of Tanzania in the North-East of Africa. They are one of nine species of the genus Agapornis and come under a sub group consisting of four of the nine species. This is called ‘the eye-ring group’, named after the white, fleshy ring around the eye.

They average 5-6 inches tall and weigh around 40-60 grams. They are slightly smaller than the other species of Lovebird, although not as small as the Nyasa Lovebirds (Agapornis lilianae). Some people believe they are not as noisey as the common Peach Face Lovebird (Agaponis roseicollis) but there are also claims that they are not as sociable. Expert sources have claimed that the eye ring group make the best hand fed pets, especially Masked Lovebirds and Black Cheeked Lovebirds (Agapornis nigrigenis) Young masked Lovebirds are known to be prone to stress, more so than other species of Agapornis. Masked Lovebirds are quite easy to breed.

The Green (wild colour) Masked Lovebird has a solid black head with a yellow collar going around the neck and down the breast. The wings and the back are green, with a lighter green underside. They have a dark blue rump on a green base and a deep red to pinkish beak. Their feet are grey with black claws and they have the distinct white ring around the eye.

Green (wild-type) Masked Lovebird

Mutations

There are many mutations of personata, most commonly been the blue masked. This mutation shares the same eye ring and black mask of the green wild type, but with a white collar, blue wings and back and a turquois underside. The Blue Masked Lovebird has been identified in their native, wild habitat and the first wild-caught Blue Masked Lovebird was imported into England in 1927.

Pastel blue and greens then followed and the ino factor was introduced from the Nyasa Lovebird resulting in lutino’s (yellow) and albino’s (white). Changes in the internal structure of the feathers lead to dark factors and violet mutaions appeared. There are many other mutations now available.

Blue (left) and Cobalt (right) Masked Lovebirds

Sexing

Masked Lovebirds, like the other speices, are sexually dimorphic. This means you cannot tell the difference between a male and female by physical appearance. There are characteristics that can give hints of the sex, but they are never very accurate. Checking the pelvic bones of the birds can give good results. If they are wide apart, it’s possibly a hen, as she needs the gap to pass eggs. If they are close together, it’s more likely to be a male. This is never 100% but a lot of experienced breeders often rely on this method and get very accurate results. The true way of sexing your Lovebird is with a DNA test. There are many places who offer this service, it’s cheap, quick and easy and won’t stress your bird out. www.avianbiotech.com offer a well priced service, covering many countries.

Housing

Housing preferences are the same as other species of Lovebirds. The minimum cage size is said to be 18 x18 inches. For a pair of birds, a good cage size would have a horizontal measurement of 24-36 inches, a height of 20-30 inches and a depth of 18-25 inches. They need lots of toys to stimulate their minds and keep them active. At least 3 toys per cage, and regurally switch them around to prevent the birds from getting bored. Some claim that a single bird can ‘fall in love’ with it’s reflection in a mirror. Although some other people may disagree, it’s still something worth watching out for. Avoid smaller toys designed for smaller birds, as Lovebirds are aggressive chewers and will destory them quickly, possibly leaving small fragments which could be dangerous.

Positioning the cage is important. Keeping them away from draughts and avoid exposure to excessive temperatures, whether high or low. They will need natural light in order to process vitamin D, crucial for birds. Place the cage on a sturdy foundation where it can’t be knocked over or accessed by other animals. Keep them away from any fumes which could damage the delicate respiratory system of the birds, including over heated teflon (not stick pans) and air-freshners, detergents, ciggarrete smoke etc.

The cage should have a variety of perches in different sizes. Natural tree branches, such as willow, make excellent perches and the uneven size and shapes help maintain the claws of the bird and exercise the muscles in the feet, which is very important. A lot of people are in favour of adding ‘concrete perches’ to help maintain the claws on the bird(s).

Masked Lovebirds also do very well in a colony in an aviary. Many breeders prefer to breed them in colonys, claiming better results, although others may disagree. You can mix different species of Lovebirds in an aviary as part of a colony but care must be taken as not to cross-breed the different species – this is not recommended and best left to the highly experienced and knowledgeable breeders. On this note, it would be best to colonise only one species of Lovebird together, as the chances of them cross-breeding is very high. If creating a colony of Lovebirds, it’s recommened to stick with an un-even number of paired-birds. Example; 1 pair, 3 pairs, 5 pairs etc. This greatly reduces any chances of the birds attacking and bullying the weaker pair, which can often lead to the death of the bird(s). Aviaries will ideally have a sheltered area for the birds to rest in and avoid exposure to weather conditions. Think about it when you build a wooden aviary, as Lovebirds love to chew, especially wood.

The cage/aviary should ideally have 2 or more food and water points, to prevent competition between the birds. Might be a good idea to position internal dishes high up so they cant expel their waste into their food/water. They will also require something to bathe in daily, whether it’s a dish/bowl or a conventional clip-on bird bath.

Newspaper and wood-chips are commonly uses on the bottom of cages/aviaries. Exercise is important, so if the bird is caged, it’s recommended to allow some free flight time to allow the bird to excersise it’s muscles. If the bird is released from the cage, ensure all doors and windows are closed, fans are switched off and a just be aware of anything in the room that could be a hazard to your bird(s).

Diet

Like most animals, diet is very important for Lovebirds. A balanced diet is needed, offering all the essential nutrients and supplements the bird require. Fresh food and water should be provided everyday and the dishes/containers cleaned at a minimum of once per week.

Fresh fruits and vegetables (no avacado) should be offered at least 3-4 times a week. Favourites are broccoli, apple, carrots, corn on the cob and spinach. Be sure to completely wash them off before feeding them your bird(s0 to avoid any contaminations/pesticides that may may be present.

A seed mix for Cockateils will be fine for Lovebirds, try and get a good quality mixture of seeds and avoid ‘cheap’ mixes. Sunflower seeds can be added in the seed, but they are very fatty so try and limit the amount you feed, or use them as a treat.

Pellet foods are very good for Lovebirds, and many of the known brands offer all the nutritional requirements the birds need. It can be difficult to convert seed-eating birds into pellet eaters; so time and patience will be needed.

Cuttlefish bone should always be available to provide the crucial supply of calcium the birds require. A mineral block could also be added.

Egg food is a great source of protein, and supplements of this can be beneficial, especially when breeding.

Lots of things can be fed to the birds, but it is advisable to do some research before trying anything as there are a lot of poisonus foods that can kill your birds.

Fresh, clean water is important. Hamster style water bottles are a good, mess-free way of offering clean, fresh water, and the birds will soon figure out how to use one. There are many types of water bottle, troughs and cups available.ater is important. Hamster style water bottles are a good, mess-free way of offering clean, fresh water, and the birds will soon figure out how to use one. There are many types of water bottle, troughs and cups available.

Breeding

Masked Lovebirds are relatively easy to breed, and are an ideal bird for anyone new to breeding birds. They lay an average of 4-6 eggs, every other day and incubation is usually 21-24 days. First thing you need is a true pair of birds, meaning a male and a female. Bear in mind there is a chance the two will not breed, so you may need to switch them around. Both male and female need to be a bare minimum of 10 months old before breeding, preferable 12 months old. Many established breeders will only breed birds of 2 years plus. The reason for this is because it’s very stressful on a young bird, especially hens (females) who have to pass eggs and risk becoming egg-bound. Ensure all perches are stable and not loose, so when they birds mate, the male can connect well.

A nest box should be provided. A good size is 25Lx18Dx18H. Ensure that any doors/lids are easy to open, in order to prevent you struggling to open them and possibly stress the parent birds and chicks. If using an outdoor aviary, ensure the box does not get wet and is sheltered. Some boxes have a special dip and/or platform to prevent the eggs from rolling out the nest, but Lovebirds build quite elaberate nests and usually deal with this problem themselves, but it’s ideal for the lazy nest builders. With a colony, always add more boxes than pairs. Example; 3 pairs, add 5 boxes. Sometimes Lovebirds can get territorial and aggressive when breeding, and bully a weaker pair out of a box.

Nesting material should be provided to make the nest. Opinions differ on what is best to use. I find that willow branches and leaves make a perfect material, and the birds seem to enjoy it. Bamboo leaves are also very good. A lot of people add grass for the birds, which also works well and other common materials include shredded paper, wood-shavings and palm fonds. Humidity plays is vital for successful results, so in warmer temperature, the moistness from willow/bamboo leaves, palm fronds etc helps balance the humidty to create the perfect conditions. Masked Lovebirds will carry the material into the nest with their beak, unlike other species that may tuck it under their feathers. Masked Lovebirds make quite amazing nests, and generally they are larger than other species like Peach Faced. Usually the hen builds the nest. Try and provide fresh material each day, even after the chicks hatch so the parents can freshen the nest up.

Lovebirds will require extra food when breeding and plenty of calcium from a cuttlefish bone. Remember that a good, well balacned diet with the necessary supplements plays a makor role in healthy, quality chicks and parent birds. Supply the birds with egg food to build up protein levels and it ideal for the parents to regurgitate for the young. Offer the usual, plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables to provide the necessary vitamins. Wheat grass offers a good supply of vitamins and minerals. Also take into consideration that chicks are known to eat more than adult birds, so you must ensure you keep food and water levels topped up, more than once a day if needed.

If the eggs don’t hatch first time, don’t worry about it. Often first time breeders produce a trial clutch with infertile eggs. Chicks usually fledge the nest around 6-8 weeks old, and are fully weaned around 10-12 weeks old, but this depends on the individual bird and circumstances. Check the chicks regurally, but try not to disturb them too much as it may stress the parents. If the chicks are been plucked by a parent bird, or not been fed they will require hand feeding or fostering. Masked Lovebirds make good foster parents and a pair will often take on other chicks to raise or eggs to sit on. Try and limit fostering to 5 eggs/chicks per pair.

Health

If you suspect any health issues with your bird, it’s highly recommended to consult a vet, preferable an avian vet who specialises in birds. Symptoms to watch out for include puffed out feathers, runny/odd coloured droppings, discharge from the nostrils and/or eyes and other odd behaviours. This is only a basic list of symptoms, so be alert, observe your birds and if in doubt, go see a vet.

Sam Gibbs aka The Mask
maskedlovebird@hotmail.com

Source

http://agapornis.be
http://africanlovebirdsociety.com

Lovebirds Owners Manual and Reference Guide
Author: Dirk Van den Abeele
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